Independent, no-gender brands that design for everyone
DS.WRITER:
Vasilis Xifaras
Central Image Source: fashionspaetkauf
Since design evolves to cater to the needs of the modern individual, it is called to deal with issues once considered taboo. Such an issue is a person’s self-identification. Up until now, fashion brands feature separate sections, one for men and one for women, strictly defined but with no profound differences between them: one often finds the same design in different sections with different prices. That is starting to become a thing of the past since new independent brands are launching clothes for every individual with no arbitrary separations. Besides, the fabric itself has no gender.
The first step towards this development was the emergence of the “unisex” concept. In reality, it is a label put on clothes meant for men and women. Now, this concept acts restrictively since it does not include every facet of self-identification. These are some brands with gender-fluid fashion, with a stronger belief in their principles than in the trends of the global market. These are clothes that do not include elements stereotypically linked to gender, such as frills or bright colours but bestow the ability to fully express yourself through them.
Fashion Spaetkauf
fashionspaetkauf.com | popaganda.gr
Markela Bgiala founded Fashion Spaetkauf in 2020 when they made the decision to transform their graphic designs into fashion. It is an entirely no-gender and queer brand: each piece of clothing is not addressed to a specific gender, while all their associates are members of the lgbtiqa+ community. Markela believe in a future with clothes that aim beyond sexuality, gender and body type. Fashion Spaetkauf also supports directly the socially marginalised by donating part of the sales earnings to NPOs.
The designs of the clothes draw inspiration from the urban landscape and the social slogans imprinted on it. A characteristic example is one of the first but successful designs titled “Exalles”, inspired by the "me too" movement.
Image: fashionspaetkauf
He-m-n-oid
Under a common aesthetic direction, Michalis Baboussis created He-m-n-oid, a project of visual arts, fashion, styling and music. Beyond the art direction that is dominated by the male figure, He-m-n-oid's clothes remain neutral, just like the raw material – the fabric. It dominates the design concept, with minimal interventions on the fabric to create the final product.
Images: Dark Forest Collection, hemnoid
Nobody Has to Know
Based in Amsterdam, the brand Nobody Has to Know was created in 2014 with the aim of including every individual in the field of fashion, through comfortable clothing that adapts to the human body. Most pieces come in one size, regardless of age, gender and body type.
Image 1: From collection «Made for Everybody», nobodyhastoknow | Image 2: From collection «the Uncut», nobodyhastoknow | Image 3: nobodyhastoknow
Methen
Born in 2014 in Athens, the Me Then brand draws inspiration from the spirit of the bustling city, combined with samples of timeless design. The creations are gender-neutral, monochromatic and minimal with high-quality fabric, ideal for each person's style. The special Mini Methen collection, in fact, has corresponding unisex clothes for children, something revolutionary by Greece’s standards. In addition to inclusivity, the brand aims to improve its sustainability, believing in a universally ethical design.
Images: methenathens
Zerobarracento
In an attempt to reconfigure the principles of the fashion industry, the Italian brand Zerobarracento creates clothing for everyone regardless of age and gender. These are clothes for every season, made of quality materials to last for a long time and pass from generation to generation, with a design distinguished by clean Italian lines. At the same time, sustainability is greatly emphasised: the fabric is used entirely, with minimal interventions on it (only seams), thus making the production waste-free.
Images: zerobarracento
Kön
The Swedish company Kön, undertaking a bold and demanding endeavour, creates no-gender underwear. Their design looks simple but actually can fit uniquely on every different body. They come in a white or black version and different sizes, noting however that beauty is in no way related to size. The products are environmentally friendly, as they are made from cellulose fibres collected from beech pulp, while their packaging comes from recycled paper.
Images: konunderwear
What these brands -Greek and non-Greek- have in common is that they contain inclusivity within their basic principles without posing a division based on gender. We can only talk of ethical design only within these conditions, staying away from ephemeral and phoney forms of activism. A garment can be considered gender-fluid even if the buyer simply uses it as such. However, it is necessary for fashion brands to promote a corresponding culture so that society moves away from labels.
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