Sustainable alternatives to real leather

Leather is an all-time classic choice for shoes and clothing. Famous fashion houses but also international fast-fashion chains repeatedly include in their collections leather jackets, pants, tops or boots. Let’s not forget the dominance of this material in accessories like belts, bags and wallets. However, the broad use of leather has always sparked a conversation about animal exploitation and whether it can be done ethically. Now, apart from the need to produce vegan leather, there is another demand, that of the use of sustainable materials that leave no ecological footprint. So, when faced with the issue of a better alternative to real leather we should consider two factors: non-animal origin and no environmental footprint.

First, we should clarify that animal leather causes immeasurable damage to the environment. An argument used by those who attempt to confute this fact is that the leather used from animals that would, either way, have ended up in the meat market does not disrupt the ecosystem. In reality, however, the biggest percentage of animal leather is produced from animals bred specifically for this reason (about 3.8 billion animals), which causes overgrazing, forest elimination, water abuse and abrupt fluctuation of certain organisms’ populations. At the same time, the darkening of leather is accomplished with the use of highly toxic substances (even though natural techniques have been developed) which harm the environment through elements that end up in the water, as well as humans who are exposed to the procedure (even causing serious forms of cancer).

*However, there are always exceptions. The Icelandic tannery “Atlantic Leather”, for instance, produces leather surfaces from fish, which are then channelled to well-known fashion houses. For their production, they use the fish waste from process units that function on geothermal energy.

A widespread and consumer-friendly alternative is synthetic leather. Is it however more environmentally friendly?

To adequately answer this question, let us take a look at what “synthetic” means. Usually, we mean two kinds of leather: PVC and PU. Both are vegan, waterproof, quite durable and cheap to produce. The former is made from chlorine, carbon and ethylene and nowadays can be found in any household item. The latter (polyurethane) is a plastic product that comes close to the texture of real leather but has been linked with skin and lung conditions. Like any plastic, it’s closely related to petroleum which makes it non-biodegradable. Let’s not forget that a big majority of plastic products end up in the ocean after their use. Even if ethical, synthetic leather can harm the planet in the long term even more than genuine animal leather.

Is there leather without environmental consequences?

Essentially, we are looking for materials that are not only vegan but are also produced as naturally as possible. Certainly, this means that the production process takes more time and subsequently costs more. Perhaps the best alternative might be found among the following ones, that use completely natural raw materials.

Πηγή: dezeen.com

Mushrooms

A special kind of mushroom, in the right size, can be transformed to a leather surface through a toxic-free process, creating an antibacterial product that is highly absorbent and has a matte touch that is softer than suede. Such leather, Muskin, is produced in Italy and comes mainly in 40 x 15 – 20 cm dimensions. It is a light product, unlike usual leather, but easily cracks and is easily corroded with time.

Πηγή: intelligentliving.co

Pineapple

The fibres of pineapple leaves can be used to create a leather fabric. This way a part of the fruit that would go to waste is transformed into a popular product. Piñatex collects such leaves in the Philippines, compresses them and forms fabrics that are then sent to Spain for the final finish. The result is a rough, light leather, that doesn’t crack easily, with sun protection, and is durable in all weather conditions.

Cactus

The crude and thick skin of cacti is ideal for transformation into leather fabric. Mature leaves from this resilient plant are collected and dried under the sun, before being processed into leather. There are, actually, natural ways of dyeing, in case the customer does not prefer the green colour of cacti. This leather lasts for at least ten years and is breathable. This kind of leather, named Desserto, is becoming more and more popular beyond Mexico, where it is produced.

Πηγή: danandmez.com

Cork 

It’s a recyclable, waterproof and durable yet light material that comes from the Quercus Suber tree, which thrives in the Mediterranean without special care or water needs. Cork is removed from parts of the tree that will not stunt its growth. The only negative is that cork leather only comes in neutral colours, in brown or beige hues. 

Coconut

Yet another kind of leather is also produced from waste. The fibres of coconut parts, which are usually gone to waste, combined with the water emerging from their processing, create a robust product that is also completely biodegradable. The leather fabric of Malai is produced in India and looks like matte cardboard, varying in thickness and colour. It is light and endures weather and cracking.

Πηγή: ubuy.com

Apple

Lastly, apple leather is produced from the skin and core of the apple, parts that are normally not consumed. These parts are mashed and dried until a thin leather layer occurs. It’s a quite durable leather fabric that comes in different colours and textures. However, for the binding of the different surfaces, synthetic PVC or PU leathers are used.

As technology develops, more and more vegan ecological leathers will emerge in the market. The basis of ecology, however, lies in sensible consumption and reduced use of energy sources. For the survival of the natural environment, the individual is called to buy fewer clothes, objects and food. For this to happen, it is necessary to create quality products that exploit natural and quality materials, are sustainable over long periods and are timeless in aesthetic character. Leather clothing and accessories will always stay in fashion, yet consumers must learn to consume single quality products and not bulk products that come and go quickly in time. That is the main issue of sustainability, not only in fashion but in the world of design in general.